Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
